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Posts Tagged ‘Glacier’

The Birth of BlueIt begins with a crack in the formidable Patagonian glacier. A fissure appears as the ice shifts, slides, moves onward. Exposed beneath the white surface is the cool blue of ice, compressed over the years. Newly exposed, beaten by the sun, it begins to melt, the fissure widens, deepens. It happens quickly, without warning, no map, no way to know where to see such beauty. We walk the ice, trek the seracs looking for the birth of blue.


But, will we miss it?


The blue fades, retreats, pulls back from humanity. Its beauty lost to the generations that come. Photographs remind us, but we can not touch the ice, feel the cool blueness, run out hands over the rough, wind pocketed outer-surface or slide between the icy peaks. The intricate beauty of abstract forms, of cracks in the ice, of water so cool, so clear, so pure, gone. Restricted to two-dimensional paper, bits and bytes of the computer. A grandness reduced to numbers, reduced to being filed away and a faded memory.

PatagoniaMarch09-4367but, will we miss it?

Water escapes us, we thirst. The glaciers that supplied our water and our lives are gone. Melted. Less snow, more heat, no accumulation, no rebirth. The fissure widens, deepens. But it is not the birth of blue that arrives. It is the death of the glacier. One crack at a time. It is the death of us. One drop of water at a time. Melting.

Yes. We will miss it.

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The point and purpose of Blog Action Day 2009 is to bring awareness to climate change. With over 7,000 bloggers registered, the electric ether seeks to correct our ignorance and obstinacy. To keep us from ignoring the signs, from losing such integral parts of our planet as a glacier.

We will miss it.

When the glaciers are gone, we will miss them. For their beauty, for their water, for their climate control.

So what can we do before we miss it, before we miss our opportunity? December 7th, 2009 in Copenhagen many in the world, including some of our leaders will gather for the United Nations Climate Change Conference where they will be negotiating to reduce greenhouse gas emissions. This is our opportunity.

Tell them we will miss it. The glacier. The water. The beauty.

PatagoniaMarch09-4285I have no head for numbers. I see blue fields of ice, not the rate of retraction. I see awesome peaks of accumulated snow, not the decrease in precipitation. But after touching it and trekking it, I know I’ll miss it. But if you want the maps and percentages and the stuff that should give us all nightmares, download the Greenpeace Argentina report, Futuro Negro para los Glaciares (obviously written in Spanish).

And don’t miss it.


Below are a small selection of images I’ve taken throughout Patagonia. If just to remind you of the beauty we’d all miss.

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This is one in the series of five images I entered. My favorite by far.

This is one in the series of five images I entered. My favorite by far.

Two posts in one day makes for an active Friday.

This email from the International Photography Awards arrived just under two weeks ago.

Congratulations. Your entry ‘The Birth of Blue ‘ has advanced through the second round and is now in the third and final round of the jurying process. Your entry is now an official Honorable Mention of the 2009 International Photography Awards.

I did not make it any further, but I’m very glad to have made it this far. You can check out the final winners here.

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The Birth of Blue Recently I partnered with Wallblank to sell one of my images. Actually I had contacted them about a month or so ago with some samples and then received an email Sunday evening asking me if I could have an image ready to go by Monday morning. Not a problem, but that also means titling it and writing a description. Many years in newspapers and countless editors ‘politely’ reminding me of deadlines serves a purpose still. I love being creative on deadline (and no, I’m not being sarcastic).

From that was born The Birth of Blue. One image available for sale which lead to a series of images all taken while trekking several glaciers in Patagonia this past March 2009.

The surreal dreamy quality most appeals to me in this series and my focus was to be more abstract.

The Birth of Blue is the hint of blue in some images, the overwhelming blue of others. It is the color of the sky, the color of compressed ice, the color of hidden lagunas, the color of dreams…

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Patagonia, ArgentinaI love this area of the world. I don’t know what it is about Patagonia exactly, but it has a part of my soul. It might be the allure of such a wild place located somewhere at the bottom of the earth, or memories from childhood stories of adventurers trekking the mountains and ice. The weather is unstable, beautiful sun one moment followed by clouds driven in by the whipping winds bringing a storm of sideways rain. The earth smells of cool dampness and the trees, stunted, broken and growing at angles speak to the ferocity of the weather.

I spent hours at the Laguna de los Tres watching Fitz Roy wrap and unwrap a cloak of clouds from its peak. They would move in, swirl about, touch the top of the mountain before moving on into the valley. I saw the sun rise over Cerro Torre, the beautiful cool blue color of the earth just before dawn. I walked across ancient glaciers, moving ice hiding crystal blue lagunas among the jagged seracs.

Patagonia might even incite me to write bad poetry. I’ll spare you however.

El Calafate and El Chalten are tourist destinations, definitely. El Chalten was more trekking oriented, with a harder core group of hikers and climbers. With Fitz Roy and the amazing network of trails almost everyone there is out to be physical, to hike hard and probably spend a day getting truly soaked Patagonian style. The town itself, a one road sort of place doesn’t have much but a few decent restaurants, a pub and and assorted cafes. The town seems to be under constant construction with multiple buildings in different stages. Many look half finished and abandoned. On others, workers would brave the Patagonian winds while traversing rooftops. The cost of food is high, the wine not cheap and vegetables in short supply. I was told by one shop keeper veggies are delivered on Wednesdays and you can’t find a tomato anywhere in town by Sunday.

El Calafate is all about souvenirs and excursions. The main street goes something like this: t-shirt shop, tour group, chocolate shop, tour group, leather shop, tour group, souvenir shop selling t-shirts, chocolate and leather goods, tour group. Don’t eat on the main drag unless you’re willing to pay 85 pesos for a bottle of wine you can buy in Buenos Aires for 20 and it is near impossible to get out of town unless you’re on a tour or renting your own car. Granted the Big Ice tour is worth the 520 pesos. All of it. But the next option on the list is either pay to go to an estancia for the day or pay to spend a day on the boat tour, described by one of the Big Ice guides as full of viejos. But then again, that is the only way to see the Upsala glacier and icebergs. The idea of not being able to do much in El Calafate without paying was either marketing genius or a grave over-site in urban planning. So many beautiful places nearby, but none I could do without a tour group.

Lest I completely negate the usefulness of either place I will say the cordero (lamb), especially at Mi Viejos in El Chalten was the perfect protein to follow a 28km trek. Perhaps I was still delirious from the pain after traversing miles of moraine to get to the Cerro Torre glacier, but I have never had cordero from the asado so satisfying. It was coupled with one of the best salads, full of beet root, lettuce, corn, carrots, tomatoes… even more of an accomplishment knowing the veggie shortage that exists in El Chalten. And in El Calafate the bar Borges along the main drag was a favorite watering hole. The people watching is priceless and we were treated to young women in full leg braces, older men and women in winter clothing that have never seen winter, teenagers in metal t-shirts and rugged men, disheveled around the edges. And if you’re a single woman (or not, who am I to say), you go to lust over the guides and generally gawk at the mountain men. My traveling companion, TJ (you can see her blog here), and I were giddy schoolgirls at some points and probably enigmas for many of the guides. We rarely encountered Argentine women while trekking unless they were with their boyfriends or husbands and none seemed to be having a good time. In contrast, and probably due to the oxygen being diverted from our brain to our muscles on the long treks, we were high, mostly energetic and taking in all the sights nature saw fit to offer.

Working out in the desert near Ridgecrest, California for an assignment one of the long-time desert dwellers told me that if you burn-up a pair of shoes in the desert you’ll be back. I never understood this sentiment for the desert. I still don’t, but that is because the desert touched him and not me. Patagonia has however and I plan to burn-up plenty of shoes.

Some photos from the trek:

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