Peru in Photos

The next generation of reed boat fishermen, Huanchaco.

Memories are fickle. Some stick, others do not. I confess to having a terrible memory for numbers. Photographs, the ones I take, get stuck in my mind however. I remember strange things, such as my body position when taking the image. I like to look back at images of the places I’ve traveled to remember the fun I was having there, the excitement of travel and the wonder meeting new people and experiencing new places.

So, without further reminiscing… Images from the recent trip: Peru

The images are divided into place categories so you won’t be subjected to hundreds of photos at once. I did go a bit crazy at times and there are about 100 photos in the Cusco folder. You’ve been warned.

Enjoy.

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From my point of view

Big Rocks : Blue Nuns

Sacsayhuaman, Cusco, Peru. Blue Nuns on tour.

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Final thoughts… Sporadic notes from the road.

When you're looking for a little direction. Don't forget to look around for the arrows. Left is good today.

I’m back in Buenos Aires now, so this post is a clearing house for some information I forgot to include earlier or just didn’t for one reason or the other while on my trip through Peru.

I loved the country and the people. And I need to go back. There is so much to trek outside of Machu Picchu. It would be a shame to not explore the country more. And well, I obviously need to see Machu Picchu still.

The only complaint is the ‘tourist tax.’ Peru is not the only country with the unofficial upping of the cost of everything once they determine you’re not local, but it is irritating to deal with when you’ve been on a bus all night. I always make it a policy to ask a local what something should cost. The local Couchsurfers are good for this. I like to travel and contact CSers at the various locations. It helps me make friends in foreign lands and get some inside information… for example, what a taxi from the bus terminal in Lima to the Plaza de Armas should cost. Let me just warn you that 20 soles is not it and I laughed at the guy who quoted me the price. I paid 6 soles by walking out of the bus terminal and shopping around… 10 soles, 9 soles, etc… Okay, Okay… security could be an issue. If I paid the 20 soles, I’d be getting the ‘certified’ taxi company that works with TRC, the bus company I used to travel from Huanchaco to Lima.  I was ‘t that worried about it. I also have this habit of getting in a cab and pulling out my cell phone and making a call, real or fictional, and saying in a loud voice, ‘Yeah. I’m in the cab and will be there in a few minutes.’ The taxista then knows someone is waiting for you.

Just a random tip from the road.

But what I guess I would really like to communicate are my three maxims of life on the road:

1. Shit will go wrong.

2. There is nothing you’ll be able to do in advance to fix it.

3. You might as well enjoy the ride anyway.

I’ve learned, through trial and error and minor temper tantrums where appropriate, that accepting the three points above makes the trip more enjoyable. Any trip. You’re going to mom’s, grandma’s, or the Amazon rain forest… shit will go wrong. Get used to it. Actually enjoy it. If you survive shit going wrong, think about it, the story is that much better. You won’t be boring your friends and family to tears when you return because you’ll actually have something interesting to say.

Second, obviously you can’t really plan for what shit will go wrong. You can guess. You can even be a good ole’ scout and Be Prepared. But, let’s face it, the shit that is really going to go wrong… you didn’t see it coming, which is why the story is so damn interesting.

Do you see where I’m going with this?

Really it is all about maxim #3: Enjoy The Ride. The ups, the downs, the sideways, the jail time, the freaky people who populate bus stops. You won’t stop the shit that goes wrong, you haven’t prepared for it, but you can, after the initial shock and check to make sure all body parts are still attached… you can Enjoy Yourself.

Wow, eh?

Harder than it sounds. Trust me. I’ve seen shit go wrong. I’ve been there. Maxim #3 takes practice. Come to think of it, I could use more practice.

Soon I’ll be on the road again. But now I think it is time to enjoy my own bed for a time.

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Running naked barefoot on the beach… Sporadic notes from the road.

A surfer comes out of the water as the sun sets over Huanchaco, Peru.

This morning the sun finally broke through the cloud cover that was hanging over Huanchaco for the past three days. I was beginning to feel as though the rain was following me. I love rain. The pounding, downpour, nature at its furious best sort of thing but, I am ready for a bit of sun now. However, the lack of direct rays didn’t keep me from getting sunburnt yesterday. Yes, I was wearing sunblock.  SPF 60 even. Remember though, I am two colors: white and red.  I’ve even been referred to as translucent on occasion.

But before I jump ahead… a brief update on where else I’ve been.

Last entry I was in Arequipa.  The best thing about Arequipa is not the city, but what is around the city. Colca Canyon is breathtaking. The rock climbing was more fun than it had the right to be. Worked my arms off to haul my butt over this one ledge. Easy for you experienced climbers out there, but it had me spouting a few naughty swear words as my hands slipped from their grip.

After finally making it over the lip I am taking a break on a natural seat before going on to finish.

A few random things about rock climbing and me:

1) Damn, that was  fun and I can’t wait to do it again.

2) I am uber stubborn when it comes to conquering something and refuse to stop half way.

3) I swear like a sailor when I am frustrated.

4) Bruise count on my legs the following day: 6.

Arequipa, the city, is pretty. I browsed a few museums, stopped in the Saint Catalina Monastary, which was a cloister for nuns. Freaky, concrete construction with a maze of streets and nooks inside. I was thinking perfect horror movie setting the whole time I was in there. The market was fabulous, but I am always a sucker for markets. I love the people behind their booths selling meat, chicken, fruits and veggies. Small booths you can stop for a fresh glass of juice or browse past the herbal section and pick up the latest love potion or headache remedy. Whatever your needs are at the moment.

Another all-nighter on a bus and I arrived in Ica. Ica is a desert town. If you know one desert town, you know Ica. Hot, dusty, raw around the edges. I stopped to couchsurf and my host took me out to do some Pisco taste testing. That was good. I picked another day to go to Huacachina, a small oasis with very large dunes. That was not so good. It would have been wonderful I’m sure, but my experience was immediately clouded when I dropped my new pns camera into the sand. I don’t recommend that. Cameras do not work with sand imbedded in the lens mechanism. I should have brought a baggie. I should have had the wrist strap on. I should have… yeah, my mind works like that. On the plus side there are no photos of me trying to sandboard. This is a good thing. (p.s had the camera cleaned in Huanchaco recently. Lens is working great. Meter is iffy, but I can deal with that for now).

LIVING A CHILDHOOD MEMORY ALERT: I flew over the Nazca lines. Okay, National Geographic makes them look really cool, or maybe that is my foggy childhood memory, but I’m a Tupperware child… easily amused. I had a blast. I was a bit tired, so I kept finding myself dozing off in the airplane, but me and the four Asian tourists had a good ‘ole time. No one got sick thankfully. The pilot liked tight turns.  Um, no camera at this point… see stupid dune story above. The monkey is by far my favorite. I guess when I think about it, the thrill is not in flying over the lines,  nor are they as impressive physically as most magazines make them look. What is so freakin’ fascinating is that they are there. Someone put them there. They had a meaning, perhaps seasonal, perhaps religious, perhaps an excuse to play in the dirt. I love the mystery.

A side note about the trip: After the flight (@30min) while I was waiting for the shuttle to take me back into town I was listening to another tourist (British I think) say she didn’t find them impressive and she doubted their authenticity. In fact, she goes on to add, they were probably put there for the tourists, because think of all the money the flight companies earn, so obviously it is a fake. Yeah. I kid you not. I’m sure there were a plethora of flyovers in 1929 when they were discovered too. Don’t worry though, she went on to add that the landing on the moon was also a Hollywood production. I love people. They keep life so interesting.

Another side note about the trip: Nazca is a one day visit.

The highest point around Colca Canyon, 4910meters or 16,108feet.

Two bus rides later…

side not on the bus system:  I can’t get over the ‘urination only’ policy for the toilets. Yes. Only number 1. No number 2. We are instructed via the onboard safety video, right after the seatbelt is mandatory by law warning, that we are only allowed to urinate, and they mean it, because it is repeated at least four times. Sure, you can ask the bus driver to pull over, so you can go find the nearest bush, but I’ve just decided the best policy is to be temporarily constipated and drink a ton of water once I arrive. A little yogurt helps after as well. Just an fyi if you every find yourself in a ‘urination only’ bus somewhere in Peru.)

…I am now in Huanchaco, Peru. On the beach. Sunny. Slightly burnt. Having random thoughts about moving to a beach town for a few months. I’d probably get bored. But then I went running this morning. Barefoot on the beach. Along the water. Listening to the sounds of the waves. Watching the fisherman out in their reed boats. Harassing the little red sand crabs as I ran by. Learning to relax and enjoy the moment. That itself could take me a few months.

chevere eh?

(favorite Peruvian word: chevere = cool)

This is what 4am looks like in Colca Canyon.

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of Sadness, Disappointment and Hypoxia… Sporadic notes from the road

Sadly there were deaths on the Inca Trail this year after a series of storms and mudslides, as I´m sure you´ve heard. An Argentine young woman and a Peruvian guide died at one of the campsites. Other local habitants also died due to flooding around the Cusco valley.

My trek was officially canceled the night before we were to leave. I knew it was coming, the news of the slide had spread fast within the trekking community. I am disappointed I could not go. I had psyched myself up for the trek and the anticipation was nearly killing me. However, I would not trek out there during the worst of the rains, or hike myself into mudslide territory. Still, there is a trek un-trekked now. I have it in my mind that I will hike the Inca Trail, but most likely I´ll be going during the dryer season next time.

If you´re going to look like a dork, go all the way! Me in Colca Canyon.

I felt as though I had waited weeks to leave on a trek. Getting stir crazy to be out of a city. Out in nature. Eventually I left for the Colca Canyon in Arequipa. Finally. Hiking. Trekking. Getting up at 2am. Ouch.

The highlight of the Colca Canyon 3 day trek is definitely San Juan, population nine. Don´t let those pool-crazy tourists tell you the Oasis is the best. Yeah, the crystal blue pools nestled between rocks at the bottom of the canyon, right beside the river are very welcoming after a hot hike, but when will you have the chance to hike into a village and double the population? To see how nine people on this planet live. Simply. In the middle of nature. Bringing in supplies by donkey. Herding sheep. Raising rabbits. Listening to the clucks of a wandering rooster.

A wood burning oven is used to cook all the meals as our host prepares breakfast while her daughter runs around in San Juan inside the Colca Canyon.

The bungalows where we stayed had thatched roofs, adobe walls and mud floors. Various creepy crawlies are the only version of room service. We were not totally roughing it though. A modern version of the outhouse with flushing toilet was very welcome. Nobody likes to squat over a hole.

Two days, a blister later and after relaxing poolside in what felt way to decadent for ´trekking´the group woke at 4:30am to hit La Subida. The Climb. 5k. No big deal. 1300meters (@4200ft) up. Ok, fine. Going from 2300meters asl (@7,500ft) to 3600meters asl (@11,800ft). Uh-huh. Bring on the altitude! It was good. It was breath-taking (the views at this point… it literally became breath-taking about 400meters from the finish). The goal – make it to the trees at the top. The time – 2 1/2 hours later. The satisfaction – hiking a 5k in 2 1/2 hours and then sitting down.

My calves are only mildly miffed at me today. The rest of my body is fine. My lungs even held on, although I will admit to feeling queasy at times. There was the option to hire a donkey for 50 soles, but the ever-masochistic-me would have none of that. Trek in. Trek out.

The benefits of getting up early. A rainbow over Colca Canyon at 6am.

So it is off to rock climb tomorrow morning. Lets see if I can´t destroy my arms now. I haven´t written about the city of Arequipa. I know. I´ll give it another day of walking the streets to let it all set in and get back to you. Sporadically.

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Rain, rain go away… Sporadic notes from the road

Locals pile mud into sacks from behind a house at the base of the Cristo Blanco in Cusco, Peru after heavy rains for consecutive days have caused mudslides in the area.

I didn’t expect my sporadic notes to be frequent, but I wanted to put this out there.

Unfortunately with the heaviest rains in 15 years, Cusco has been declared in a state of emergency and Machu Picchu has been closed for the next 3 to 4 days, at least. There have been mudslides within the city limits and throughout the area and severe problems with transit between the towns as well as getting in and out of Cusco. The bridge to Pisaq collapsed two days ago. It has been raining all night again, so new problems I’m sure will arise for the Sacred Valley area.

Approximately 2,000 or so tourists are stranded in Machu Picchu and Aguas Calientes. According to El Commercio, the newspaper out of Lima, the Peruvian army will be airlifting them by helicopter. The usual mode of transportation to and from Aguas Calientes, the train, is partly under water for what I hear is several kilometers. The river nearby is running full.

Locals in Cusco, Peru clean up the stairs and rebuild walls after heavy rains have caused mudslides in the area.

More problems with crop damage, bridges underwater and lack of potable water is severely impacting the area and the people who live here. Surrounding towns are most effected with an estimated 40% without potable water.

Go here to see videos uploaded by locals in Cusco.

I was speaking with a guide last evening who is also involved in the search and rescue community here and he says the Camino de Los Incas is also in bad shape. I have a meeting today to see if I will be leaving tomorrow to hike the trail. At this point I am very pessimistic. The state of emergency is for 60 days, Machu Picchu is closed, and I can not see the benefit of adding more people to an area that is already experiencing some of the worst damage in years. Nor do I feel like hiking into a mudslide.

Rain, rain go away.

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Sporadic notes from the road

A rainbow makes an appearance over the main plaza and church in Cusco, Peru.

Begin.

As the title indicates these will be sporadic notes…

Current location: Cusco, Peru

Current weather: Raining and on the nippy side

Current aim: adjust to altitude before leaving for the Inca Trail in a few days.

Fun facts that seem oddly stupid: While boarding the airplane from Buenos Aires to Lima on Aerolineas Argentinas, 3 days ago, passengers were allowed to board from both the front and back doors after we were shuttled to the plane. Passengers apparently picked at random which door and those sitting in the front of the aircraft did not necessarily board by the front door, and vice versa, causing some rather entertaining gridlock in the already narrow aisles. I boarded from the front. Seat 14F.

Hostal notes on Loki in Lima: The bar in the hostel provided several examples of the mating rituals of the young human male. Removing shirts, showing off tattoos, asking the female he was trying to impress if she needed another drink. Insisting she did. Smartly, she continued to decline.

I ended up in a room built for 4 beds, but with 6. It was a little cramped. Add a snorer, a car alarm, and various comings and goings and I didn’t sleep all that well the second night in Lima. I’ve decided that wanting and craving sleep is a sign of maturity and wisdom.

Sites: I spent the day in the neighborhood Miraflores. Beautiful houses with arched windows, brick and stucco, white walls, flowering gardens and electrified wire fences above the already towering gates to keep the unwanted out. The view of the beach is spectacular from the cliffs. I also toured the Huaca Pucllama ruins. The Lima people worshiped the sea, therefore women were important, therefore the bodies of the sacrificed they’ve uncovered have all been women. Condensed version of the tour. Worth the 10soles to enter.

Also throughout Miraflores is a cow art exhibition. Artists take a cow statue and create something. My fav is Cowpido or Cow + Cupid = Cowpido in Spanish.

Favorite misc. site thus far: Japanese tourists doing group stretching exercises in the domestic side of the Lima airport.

Currently now in Cusco, Peru. Raining as usual for January. Must by myself a poncho. Paid the final balance on the Inca Trek. Noticed with humor the highest pass that we’ll cover at 13,776ft or 4,200m is also known as Dead Woman’s Pass.

Sleep status: Well rested thanks to the tranquil and lovely Hospedaje Turistico Recoleta.

Altitude sickness level: None I’d say. Had a brief headache yesterday. Drinking water like a fish and therefore using the bathroom every 15min. No alcohol, no heavy food. I did get a dose of reality when I went to walk up to the plaza San Blas yesterday and realized half way up the hill that my heart was trying to escape my body. I stopped and panted on the sidewalk along with the rest of the tourists. Good company.

Ok. Enough update. Next one somewhere along the way.

Stop.

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